Mar 22, 2019 · Rachel Carr talks about her journey with a finger injury; from discovering the issue to recovery, and what the injury taught her about strength & conditioning. Hangboarding and easy climbing are the way to effective healing; weeks off until it feels better is not. Your anecdote generally matches the active rehab approach I have taken for tweaky fingers and wrists. Aug 26, 2025 · Experiencing a climbing finger injury can be incredibly frustrating. In this installment of the Hang Right series, Physical Therapist Esther Smith explains how the hangboard is actually the perfect rehabilitation tool to heal nagging finger injuries. A “hook” position for the fingers and hand helps maintain finger joint mobility, finger joint synovial fluid secretions and flexibility of the tendons at the back of fingers (extensors) in a way that often gets neglected with climbers. May 1, 2020 · Climbing Nomads 9 weeks after rupturing her A2 pulley in her ring finger, Soph has been starting exercises to rehabilitate and build up strength in the finger. Jared Vagy, about how climbers can heal finger injuries and avoid injuries in the future. Jul 1, 2025 · Dr. Discover the most common climbing finger injuries and how to deal with them before they wreck your season. Jul 3, 2022 · Every climber knows how important it is to keep your hands and fingers strong and mobile. When I was allowed to climb again, I started with controlled climbing in an open hand position. This morning while browsing I saw yet another post, like mine, from a beginner climber requesting help with finger pain. Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing strength and endurance. Dec 12, 2018 · The hangboard is often thought of as an apparatus that can strain the tendons in your fingers. REHABBING AN INJURED FINGER? Injuries do happen, unfortunately! In this video, we have Coach and Climber Maddy doing a reflective look back on her recent rehab strategy for a painful Dec 6, 2022 · In summary – climbing is very hard on our fingers. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The most common injuries seen in our sport are A2 flexor pulley strains, and when not diagnosed and treated correctly, a simple strain can keep you off the rock for months. Rest, ice, splinting, and physical therapy are common treatment options. And with good reason: While climbing is a full-body exercise, fingers make the most contact with the rock, thus taking more abuse than other limbs, especially from pockets. Dec 17, 2025 · Rock climbing can be a strenuous sport, and is especially strenuous to the muscles of our finger flexor tendons and muscles causing injuries. I take you through my rehab process and introduce you to the NEW sport I Safely stretch injured shoulder, elbow and wrist joints with the Vive Wooden Finger Ladder. I climbed for a maximum of 90 minutes in a row to prevent doing too much in one session. It was over 4 months till I felt comfortable trying 1 arm hangs on large edge again. For a full treatment on common climbing injuries, I recommend the book One Move Too Many. At first, I was nervous about stressing the finger again while Buy Grip Strength Trainer, Hand & Finger Exerciser with Silicone Rings, Adjustable Resistance for Rehabilitation, Rock Climbing, Sports & Stress Relief, Portable Hand Gripper at Walmart. May 16, 2024 · At Kinima Physio, our climbing physiotherapists support rock climbers across West Leederville and Gwelup with targeted hand and finger injury assessment, rehabilitation, and prevention programs. Mar 5, 2014 · This is why finger pain lasting more than a week in a junior should always be referred to a health professional. I'm just not in the best position to go see a real doctor currently). Great for rehabilitation, physical therapy and more, our ladder features 34 incremental steps to effectively increase the range of motion and flexibility. The third stage is continuing these exercises and returning to climbing, aiming to rehabilitate the injury rather than to train. By adopting a holistic approach to prevention and care, we can continue to embrace our climbing adventures with vigor, resilience, and a profound connection to our well-being. What climbers fear most isn’t heights, falls, or mangled toes—it’s finger injuries. com/finger-tool🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www. The finger block on the other hand can isolate the fingers that little bit more yet still also requires activation around the elbow and forearm. com Sep 25, 2022 · Check this blog post as we go over what PIP synovitis is and learn some helpful techniques you can use to rehab this particular finger injury. See below for Videos as well as anatomy, healing times, tendon glides, Wave Tooling, H-taping, progressive strengthening, and return to climbing progression. Jun 23, 2024 · In this article, we will discuss some effective strategies for recovering from finger injuries in sport climbing, including rest, proper rehabilitation exercises, and tips for preventing future injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important Nov 21, 2022 · Everyone wants strong fingers, but not everyone understands just how to do it right. Climber's finger is a common injury that is seen in almost all climbing sports. Climbing requires a lot from our hands. Here we’ll walk you through what you need to know to help understand what’s wrong, why you should care, and what you can do about it. Beyond that usage of tape, however, it’s currently unclear whether supportive taping methods like H-taping will help with tenosynovitis or exacerbate it. Sometimes a climber will feel a tweak and here a loud “pop” followed by pain, swelling and maybe limited mobility. I was doing higher intensity using all other fingers to maintain strength. Dec 9, 2022 · To climb longer and stronger, it’s important to understand our hand anatomy and how pulley injuries happen, as well as how to prevent and treat them, and to restrengthen an injured digit. The smooth red oak wood finger ladder is rounded Jul 26, 2019 · Learn a simple, but powerful 6-minute finger training routine to improve tendon health and finger strength. Sep 14, 2020 · We’re going to find out how to FINALLY fix that lingering hand or finger injury you got months ago from climbing that “ just won’t heal ”. Jul 17, 2019 · Best Rehab Tool for Finger Injuries: Farmer Crimps Hooper's Beta 146K subscribers Subscribed Mar 10, 2017 · Ways to diagnose finger injuries and explore common finger injuries from rock climbing Mar 24, 2022 · Looking to bring a new angle to your hand- and finger-strength training? Then try these fast, simple, effective putty exercises, which will hone the smaller, hard-to-train muscles in your hands and fingers and help with injury recovery. For this reason we always recommend people seek advice f Finger Flexor Tenosynovitis in Rock Climbers (Causes, Diagnosis, Treatment) Hooper's Beta 132K subscribers 2. In fact, you will notice after some finger training that the smallest holds on your project that felt unhangable become more manageable. Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. May 1, 2017 · There was a pop or two when pulling on a hold You pulled on a hold hard, and one of your fingers felt like it strained and injured Your foot or hand slips and your hand or finger gets tweaked Climbing finger injuries are fairly common. This video covers medical and clinical ways to diagnose pulley injuries, a clear timeline for returning to climbing and hangboarding, specific categories of rehabilitation, how to unload, increase Nov 14, 2022 · Tape You can use climbing tape like a cast to immobilize your finger if you find that it helps you avoid crimping while climbing. Sep 5, 2025 · A comprehensive treatment plan, written by a physical therapist and based on evidence-based research, to heal a climbing finger injury. Do this as Prehab or rehab after consuming Supercharged Collagen. The general consensus of “RICE” or “rest and allow it to heal” is not specific enough recovery. PT Jeff’s comprehensive rehabilitation program for finger pulley injuries. Ideal for climbers of all ability levels! A Crash Course on How To Treat Climbing Related Finger Injuries for Optimal Healing. com/ Sep 4, 2020 · Climbing: Climbing may actually take place in the progressive loading phase provided it is done submaximally, with the splint and without any of the lingering soreness, loss of motion or function responses addressed earlier. Book your free consultation now! It’s no secret that rock climbing and bouldering whether indoor or outdoor can affect your hands. I kept climbing easy for me (below onsight) grades until it felt stronger. You may experience injuries in your joints or just… Training your finger and grip strength for climbing not only helps with making technical climbs more approachable, but also helps minimize injury. Finger Strengthener,Finger Exerciser and Hand Strengthener Rehab for Musician,Rock Climbing,Comfortable Conditioning 100+ bought in past month Add to cart Dec 18, 2023 · 46 likes, 0 comments - klim. Learn what can you do nutritionally to speed healing and get back to climbing your best! The hang-board has the added benefit of incorporating the arm as a whole in a more climbing specific position therefore targets shoulders, elbows and fingers. Jul 26, 2021 · If your issue is over-training, over-climbing, or performing certain activities that continue to irritate your FDP, these need to be eliminated while you’re healing, otherwise you’re simply negating all the rehab work you’re doing and effectively working against yourself. info/ebook/more Apr 13, 2021 · This exercise can help you heal, recover and rehab more effectively and increase your contact strength after a hand or finger injury from rock climbing. Sep 23, 2025 · Climbing after a finger injury? Learn how to return safely, rebuild strength, and avoid setbacks with a steady, body-aware approach. Passive Recovery Period Puffy, stiff PIP joints from climbing? Learn causes, rehab, taping, and a 4-week plan to fix finger capsulitis/synovitis—then send again with confidence. Nedan kommer vi att prata om PRICE-terapi och hur man tillämpar den på hand-, finger- och handledsskador vid bergsklättring: Skydd: Denna fas innebär att man stoppar all aktivitet i handen, fingrarna och handleden för att förhindra ytterligare skador. 4K Jan 16, 2025 · Injuries can range from a mild sprain or a complete tear. Climbing is hard on the finger flexor tendons and pulleys. Then worked in light 7 sec 3 finger open hangs on large edge with taped finger for about 2 months . Back in July of 2016 I pulled what I'm presuming to be the A2 pulley in my middle finger of the left hand (pain is just above the base of the finger) from overuse on an crimp project outside. Ive been climbing for about a year and a half and climb around v4. Sep 14, 2020 · We’re going to find out how to FINALLY fix that lingering hand or finger injury you got months ago from climbing that “just won’t heal”. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. We will go deep into understanding pain science and how to USE that knowledge to rehab our injuries. Tyler Nelson explains how to identify, prevent, and treat capsulitis, a type of synovitis that accounts for 6-10% of climbing injuries. Recently I noticed some pain in my right index finger tendon (the one that goes… Hey all, a couple of months ago I posted across a number of climbing subreddits to try and better understand an injury I had in my right middle finger. Oct 23, 2009 · A Rock + Run article on the prevention, management, treatment and recovery of finger injuries from climbing. This comprehensive guide offers crucial insights into both rehabilitation and prevention strategies. And any finger pain in juniors means REST and likely rehab exercises. The pain is located along the front of one or more fingers. fysio on December 18, 2023: "Part 3 from @nigel_armino about his rehab. Jun 7, 2021 · The most injured finger is the ring finger, followed by the middle finger. Fingers are obviously extremely important for climbing and, just like any other joint, need to be warmed up and like varied loads! Jan 30, 2023 · Renowned climbing coach Eric Hörst's quick and simple protocol is great for finger recovery and injury prevention Jan 21, 2025 · A finger injury doesn’t mean the end of your climbing journey—it’s a temporary detour. After the pulley heals, most people use tape on that finger to provide additional support when climbing. Finger recovery is a major concern. How to Diagnose and Rehab a Finger Pulley Injury A pulley injury is the most common injury in rock climbers, accounting for over 40% percent of all climbing injuries. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. If you climb and/or train frequently at a rigorous level, then there's a good chance you've experienced finger pain and Feb 27, 2024 · Use these stretches as a way to balance your time hangboarding, climbing, or at home to keep your hands, wrists, fingers, and elbows strong and mobile. May 14, 2021 · This causes finger flexion with light activation of the extensors, but also works the wrist extensors which can have the added benefit of reducing elbow issues when you return to climbing. hoopersbeta. Jul 30, 2020 · Here's how to treat and prevent one of the worst and most common finger injuries in the world of climbing Feb 15, 2021 · Climbing is hard on the finger flexor tendons and pulleys (A2 and such). closed grip as you’re returning to climbing check out our article on grip position: Nov 11, 2021 · The next stage will involve light rehab exercises such as squeeze balls for a finger injury, or rubber-band work and light weights for an elbow or shoulder. To give you some context, I'm currently climbing at a V5 level in bouldering and training on the hangboard 2-3 times a week alongside my climbing sessions. Feb 27, 2020 · Learn how to identify common climbing finger injuries, understand the anatomy of pulleys and find a path to recovery, by Sports Osteopath Rupert Cross. The thought of losing strength or stopping your passion weighs heavily. Oct 7, 2024 · Fingers feeling stiff and sore, just in time for good conditions? Warm up right with these finger stretches and exercises to shake off the fatigue. They can range from acute to chronic. Motivation: In this post I will detail my journey to understanding finger injuries, testing out various methods and my conclusions on what method works best for rehabilitation. After letting it rest for a bit, I went back to easy climbing. Learn how to manage these injuries to continue enjoying the sport of climbing. By understanding your injury, making smart modifications, and focusing on recovery, you can stay connected to the sport you love. , all result in the same type of fatigue. To learn more about open hand vs. This was to limit the strain on the A2 pulley. Understanding anatomy, biomechanics, and sound training principles (including appropriate grip choice) is foundational. Jul 11, 2022 · Finger injuries are very common in climbing and these types of injury are quite unique to the sport. In this video we've got Ollie Torr taking us through one of his finger and forearm rehab/prehab routines. Mar 24, 2024 · In wrapping up, Climber's Finger, while prevalent in the climbing community, presents an opportunity to reevaluate our practices and prioritize our health. Oct 30, 2024 · Discover the benefits of the finger ladder in rehabilitation therapy to enhance recovery, improve strength, and boost patient motivation. The main aim is to support the ligament as it h Nov 29, 2013 · The recovery regimen outlined here is intended to treat partial ruptures of the finger pulleys, which is one of the most common climbing injuries of the fingers and hand. Sep 17, 2019 · Finger pulley injuries are the bane of a passionate climber. Treatment for flexor tendon tear Sep 21, 2022 · Subscribed 5 2. Nina, I am aware that most climbers suffer from pulley injuries, but I am seeing more and more climbers with swollen knuckles and painful knuckles. This is by no means an exhaustive list of exercises What I’ve Learned from Finger Injuries: Or how I Learned to Disregard the Gimmicks and Love the Board. Injuries The three finger injuries that climbers frequently experience are an A2 pulley strain or rupture, a flexor tendon tear, or a Mastering rock climbing finger training is a long-term commitment over many months/years—finger development takes time, balancing dedicated strength work with a profound respect for finger health and injury prevention. The best thing you can do to reduce injury is to be careful with increasing loads in any form, avoid spikes, and gradually build robust fingers over time. I injured my finger at the start of summer and it's been a long way back to fitness. 9K views 2 years ago More eBooks, exercises, and tips on rehab, rock climbing, running, and more can be found here: https://movemend. I will discuss several Taping Methods (Ring Method, H - Method, X/8 - Me Explore specialized physical therapy for climbers by a climber, offering tailored rehab programs to prevent injuries and improve performance. Jul 6, 2021 · Find out about climbers finger and other injuries in climbers. Pulley injuries are graded on a scale from Grade I to Grade IV with the worst being Grade IV. Dec 14, 2018 · In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. If so, after you have unloaded your fingers with rest, you can begin a progressive loading program to re-introduce your fingers to the stresses of climbing in a controlled way. ☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www. May 10, 2021 · If your finger is tweaked without a full-blown injury, this rehab plan will help get you back to climbing strong and pain-free. A common mistake in the climbing world is the assumption that finger boarding, rope climbing, limit bouldering, campusing, etc. So, what can you do to reduce your risk of these pesky finger injuries? Here's a 6-minute "protective" finger training protocol that will nourish and strengthen your flexor tendons and pulleys. Feb 26, 2024 · Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. Nov 7, 2012 · What climbers fear most isn’t heights, falls, or mangled toes—it’s finger injuries. Climbing Nomads A2 pulley rupture - how to promote healing for a full rupture in the initial first few weeks. Climbers put such a huge flexion demand on their fingers that overtime they can experience loss of mobility and strength, which can lead to chronic injuries.

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